29 May 2014

I arrived in Kathmandu on the birthday of the Buddha and the city was alive with celebration. I climbed down from the plane into a heat so perfect every fiber of my skin began to dance. It is a heat that has a sweet, sultry whisper instead of a deafening shout. It is a...

21 May 2014

"There is always an enormous temptation in all of life to diddle around making itsy-bitsy friends and meals and journeys for itsy-bitsy years on end. I won't have it. The world is wider than that in all directions, more dangerous and bitter, more extravagant and bright...

16 May 2014

Mount Everest as seen from Drukair2 PLW edit 

CC BY-SA 2.0


The journey from Guilin was a comedy of errors that lasted for 16 hours. It was fraught with delays, reroutings, and landings repeatedly thwarted by storms. I hadn’t slept except for fitful naps in odd places—bo...

13 May 2014

I left Yangshuo on an evening like a furnace, dripping with humidity and sweltering with light. I left in a flurry of teary smiles and sweaty hugs, feeling some of my heart stay behind. It lingered in the view from my sixth-storey window, built itself into the walls of...

10 May 2014

The heat has come to Yangshuo. It is thick and steaming and heavy, like a blanket whose down was spun from dew. It rains in rushes and hushes, little outbursts of liquid applause rippling through the theater of the sky, thunderhead climax and cloudscape denouement shot...

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