4 Jul 2014

Yesterday, I got to try Mumbai street food at Civil Mall in Kathmandu. The delectable dough balls pictured above are a type of chaat, or savory street snack, called alu dahi puri. The small spheres of puri are filled with mashed potatoes and a fiery chili paste. They'r...

2 Jul 2014

For a mind-expanding chicken tikka kebab, head to Helena's in Kathmandu. It's an upscale modern diner with a peaceful rooftop space on Chaksibari Marg in Thamel. The tender, lightly blackened chicken breast is steeped in a flawlessly piquant tandoori paste and served a...

26 Jun 2014

A treasure trove of exquisite antiques at Baber Mahal Revisited, a historic Rana palace turned upscale shopping complex near Singha Durbar in Kathmandu. For delightful French food, dine al fresco at Chez Caroline and don't miss the coulant au chocolat for dessert! It's...

25 Jun 2014

Another long walk through the labyrinth of Patan, an al fresco garden dinner of vegetable and paneer kebabs with a glass of red wine at Dhokaima Cafe, and a street art sighting on the homeward stroll. Content in Kathmandu.



23 Jun 2014

How have I been here for six entire weeks and not discovered Newari food until today? (This is why spending ten days paid vacation in a country just will not do.) Newar people are Nepal's aboriginals and, not surprisingly, their cooking is like moksha on a plate (moksh...

17 Jun 2014

For an unusually classy and delectable take on traditional Nepali cuisine, visit Café Swotha near Patan Durbar Square in Lalitpur, just south of Kathmandu. The tiny café is part of the Traditional Homes Swotha complex, a boutique bed and breakfast in a beautifully reno...

19 Apr 2014

I have thus far managed to locate only one cafe on my street with an English menu. There, one might order the following dishes, among other unappetizing curiosities:  


  • "A whole thing" (10 yuan) 

  • "80s mashed potatoes"

  • "Sauce pepper steamed stinking meat"

  • ...

18 Apr 2014

I. A pedestrian never has the right of way. Nevermind the crosswalks and do not trust the little green man on the traffic light. The appropriate procedure is to wait until no one is coming and then run for your life, whether the little man is red or green. 

II. Mopeds...

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