8 Jul 2014

During my last few days in Kathmandu I was struck with a new and hard-earned understanding of the way that people make their circuitous ways through that roiling circus act of a town. I realized in the end that there was in fact a system for who takes the semi-sheltere...

4 Jul 2014

Yesterday, I got to try Mumbai street food at Civil Mall in Kathmandu. The delectable dough balls pictured above are a type of chaat, or savory street snack, called alu dahi puri. The small spheres of puri are filled with mashed potatoes and a fiery chili paste. They'r...

3 Jul 2014

I went back to the central post office today with two more packages to mail. It was considerably less crowded than my first hectic visit and I was able to document the parcel packing process in all of its wonderful absurdity.

 

The assembly line works like this: after ha...

2 Jul 2014

For a mind-expanding chicken tikka kebab, head to Helena's in Kathmandu. It's an upscale modern diner with a peaceful rooftop space on Chaksibari Marg in Thamel. The tender, lightly blackened chicken breast is steeped in a flawlessly piquant tandoori paste and served a...

30 Jun 2014

The monsoon gave a dynamic performance this afternoon in Kathmandu. Without so much as a rumble for a warning, the levees in the clouds dissolved, unleashing cataracts, cannonades of rain, to wreak their liquid havoc on the world. Crash-dazzle magic, boom-flicker medic...

27 Jun 2014

Tonight I managed to get three lovely people to join me for a screening of a documentary about the Mongolian hip hop community. My delightful trio of company was formed by Tenzin the Tibetan chef, Gobin the Nepali trekking guide, and Marta the American, who works on mo...

26 Jun 2014

A treasure trove of exquisite antiques at Baber Mahal Revisited, a historic Rana palace turned upscale shopping complex near Singha Durbar in Kathmandu. For delightful French food, dine al fresco at Chez Caroline and don't miss the coulant au chocolat for dessert! It's...

25 Jun 2014

Another long walk through the labyrinth of Patan, an al fresco garden dinner of vegetable and paneer kebabs with a glass of red wine at Dhokaima Cafe, and a street art sighting on the homeward stroll. Content in Kathmandu.

 

dhokaimacafe.com

23 Jun 2014

How have I been here for six entire weeks and not discovered Newari food until today? (This is why spending ten days paid vacation in a country just will not do.) Newar people are Nepal's aboriginals and, not surprisingly, their cooking is like moksha on a plate (moksh...

23 Jun 2014

The monsoon has stepped up its game this week, unleashed its liquid combat in earnest. For most of June the rain was just scrimmage, one or two daily downpours sandwiched like damp parenthetical interludes between balmy expanses of sunshine. Now the days are waterlogge...

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